The clutch does not have to release fully, like with a synchronized transmission, it just has to slip enough to allow take the load off the input shaft so that the slider and the gear teeth can unlock. You can keep your foot planted on the throttle and quickly tap the clutch. So to unlock the slider from the gear you can do one of two things:ġ. The teeth on both the gears and the sliders have a trapezoidal shape which locks together under power, and if you were to attempt shifting while the teeth on the slider and on the gear are locked together, you would brake things in a hurry. We are, after all, posting in the "high performance" forum.Īlso please note that at no point did I advocate that these type of transmissions should be installed in every muscle car. However, to me it seems silly to strictly classify certain components as being "race only" or "street" or whatever, based on some arbitrary judgment. We all have our definition of what a "street" car is and I am fine with the diverse opinions.
Pro shifted free#
You are of course free to voice your opinion, as you have already done, with respect to what the experience might be like, but your opinion is based on what you see in a couple of short video clips. Since you have never had one of these transmissions in a street car, and thus have no first hand experience, I don't see how you can pass judgment that it is like driving an "an old non-synchro'd double clutched mil spec vehicle." I am merely voicing my opinion as to my experience of living with one of these transmissions in a car that I daily drove for more than a year. Prices were very reasonable last time I inquired.I am not being petty or dismissive. I don't have their contact info handy, but if you are REALLY turning some rpm, or are 'drag only', then contact them. It works much better, and is much stronger.
They completely machine all the snycro teeth off your old gear, then weld on 'dog rings'. I checked with Liberty Gear once, and their prices were VERY fair. Grinding away every other tooth on the gears and sliders completely will weaken things significantly. especially if it still has syncronizers.Īs for 'crash boxes'. Synthetic oil is MANDATORY in a stick shifted drag car. It might if you drove 30 miles there, but it would still probably cool down between rounds. and at the track, it just doesn't happen. Non-synthetic oil has to get FULLY warmed up before it thins out enough to work right. You just can't run thick, non-synthetic oil in it. My car got, and still gets shifted at 6800 rpm, and the TOTALLY STOCK toploader does just fine. and it shifted, and powershifted just fine. The next one I built, didn't get those mods. Initial results were good, as it shifted, and powershifted just fine. (used an extra long pilot bushing in order to use the shorter 'big block' pilot shaft, and it came loose, junking everything) Unfortunately, that transmission had a catastrophic failure early in it's service life, so it only made a few trips to the track. The syncronizers were left in place, and it worked just like a regular transmission, but was supposed to shift better at high rpm. I did this just to the tip, and didn't grind the entire tooth away, as that would weaken the gear. I read an article, and on one of the transmissions I built for the mustang, I ground the point off every other tooth on the gears' sychro ring. The highest torque multiplication is in 1st gear, but these teeth are left alone so tranny strengh should not be an issue. Be sure to follow through and complete the shift or you'll end up in neutral with a horrible grinding sound! So now the obstacles to a fast shift are eliminated but the gears will grind during a granny shift, so on the street, use the clutch but move the lever quickly. Then, push the stick toward 3rd and repeat the process.
Then I pull back on the shift lever and when the engine hits the rev limiter the pressure on the gears is released and SNICK!, it's in 2nd just like that. I set the rev limiter at the RPM I want to shift at. These are called blocking rings because they block completion of the shift until both gear and slider are at the same speed. The brass synchronizer (or "blocking") rings are left out. It adds some backlash to the drivetrain but is hardly noticeable (haven't done much street driving yet, though). This allows plenty of room for the remaining teeth to slide together.
On 2nd, 3rd, and 4th I ground off every other 'dog' tooth on BOTH gear and slider to eliminate the possiblility of hanging up mid-shift. I recently did this on the Top Loader in my Cougar.
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